Cairngorm and Alpines

Thursday May 12

The first funicular up Cairngorm leaves at 10.00a.m., we were on it. Several flights of stairs and a wrong turn later, we were on the outside viewing platform. Boy, what a penance. We stuck out the howling, cold, wind and occasional rain flurries for an hour before retiring to the Ptarmigan cafe for soup and a roll. That was the only Ptarmigan we saw all morning before giving up and catching the 1.00 train down. The visibility varied from a mile to (mostly)several feet.

As we were about to join the two way part of the access road, a black bird stepped into a roadside bush. A male Black Grouse. What a delightful surprise.

Lochindorb before going back to the chalet - the pretty way! I was able to photograph a male Red Grouse, the rain certainly brings them out into the open.

The Famous Grouse

A swimming Black-throated Diver was our first freshwater view of the trip.

Amazing. No Common Sandpipers to-day.

A charming baby Lapwing trotted across the road in front of us before a calling parent sent it scuttling to play dead beside the loch.

Much prettier on its spindly little legs.

You can't see me....

After a coffee, we went to the hotel to access the internet, then back to prepare dinner before setting off for Tulloch Moor. We'd been told that a couple of Black Grouse showed in the evening. Pam climbed to the viewing platform and signalled that she could see them. By the time I got there - fairly quickly - they'd disappeared. Just as well we'd seen one earlier! Pam was put out but, she got the reward for her persistence.

Returning via the loop road, Pam stopped, thinking she had seen a Redstart. Looking up, I saw another Crested Tit foraging in the branches. Fantastic.

Our usual last day is to try and catch up with missed birds or to potter about in the area.To-day, we gave up on the Caper - too early a start, and the Ptarmigan - bad weather, to drive to Inshriach Alpine nursery. After the usual mouth watering selection of alpines, perused and bought, next stop was the cafe. For two reasons. They have a massive feeding area high up in the trees outside a balcony bar and stools which overlooks a steep drop to the valley below. Secondly, they have fantastic cakes. Pam had carrot cake, I had chocolate and raspberry. Couldn't resist photographing the Red Squirrel and Siskin with begging baby, despite the rain in the background and the heavy shade against the light.

Feed Me

That's Better

Insh marshes RSPB reserve was as birdless as always. The hide overlooks an enormous expanse of marsh. We found Redshank, Grey Heron, Curlew and half a dozen Roe Deer whilst we were waiting for the heavy rain shower to ease. The few Swifts passing through are always a delight. The eastern Europeans had left before the rain, two other birders and us had to sit it out.

Glen Feshie was quiet too - still raining......

We gave up. Did a last shop in Tesco and came home to pack up for to-morrow. Hateful job. All those bits to find room for. And....the vacuum has a large split in the hose, blows out air!
A last hurrah. An Osprey flew over as we drove to the chalet.

Friday May 13

Tuesday May 10

Yesterday was great. To-day wasn't.

We arrived at the Loch Garten Osprey hide at 6.00 a.m. A blob in a tree had been seen by a few but not by most. After half an hour of the jockeying for position at the viewing slots - which we hate - we left, telling ourselves, truthfully, that we preferred the Black Grouse to a Capercaillie blob anyway.

Tulloch Moor, very windy and cold. We were surprised to find no other birders there. No wonder, no grouse! What a disappointment. Apparently, they have not been showing at all well -if at all. Where do we go now?

A quick visit to the parking varea to console ourselves with another view of the Crested Tit dart, hurling itself out of the nesthole.

Back to the chalet for another hour's sleep, a shower and hair wash, followed by breakfast.

After a Tesco shop for vegetables in Aviemore, we lunched in the Coire na Coiste parking area halfway up Cairgorm. No sign of any Ring Ouzels - no birds at all - in the howling wind, slinging showers against the car and drifting the rain like thick cloud across the mountainside. In between, the sun shone warmly....

As we left, a Raven flew through.

Loch Morlich's choppy waters yielded four Goldeneye and several Mallard, our last hurrah before returning to the warmth of the chalet and a trip to the Hotel for an internet connection. For no apparent reason, sitting in the lounge at our computers makes us both feel very uncomfortable, especially when there are guests arriving. The stay is minimal, I come back here to write up the day's Blog and sort photos. No photos taken to-day.

We plan our east coast trip to Dunnett Head to-morrow, a long day, no internet until Thursday. The forecast looks reasonable, we hope to dodge the showers.

Wednesday May 11

In the car and away by 5.38 a.m. on a lovely sunny morning to begin my favourite Highland trip.

Embo sand-drift-blocked jetty via a caravan park is the first stop. We always remember it for eating Bridget's delicious fruit cake, with wind blasting sand against the car. An empty sea to-day but, a surprise three Purple Sandpipers snoozing on the rocks. Working our way around the sea loch, a few Bar-tailed Godwits amongst the Whimbrel and Curlew on the usual corner where waders congregate at high tide.

The Mound is our preferred breakfast place. The view is stunning and there is always a good chance of a variety of birds.

View of the Mound from Parking Area

 High tide to-day made for even better views. The usual ducks and gulls plus one Pintail, 3 Redshank, 4 Greenshank, a pair of Teal and a Kestrel to add to the constant piping of Common Sandpipers over breakfast.

The next stretch of the A9 is visually stunning on a lovely day. Burnished gold and silver sea to the right, golden, gorse clad mountain, redolent with coconut on the left.

Turning off the A9 at Golspie onto the 24 miles to Forsinard single track road, is one of Pam's favourite sections. The first part is quite gentle. The river is relatively smooth running, the sides tree clad. Gradually, the river narrows, the trees become patches of stunted, gnarled, lichen covered oaks, with many dead spikes to illustrate the harsh winters here.

A superb male Grey Wagtail bounced onto the road, beak full. Not much time to appreciate it, as a car passed us and scared it off. Redpoll flew over and our first Greylag goslings were shepherded into the water by watchful parents.

A delighted cry from Pam. An Osprey, fish in talons, perched on a hilltop beside the road.

We stopped. It flew off, fish tightly clasped in one talon.

After Kildonan station - two dwellings in the middle of nowhere - the scenery becomes

bleak moorland with isolated patches of conifer plantations. Real Flow Country starts after Kinbrace. Miles of moorland covered in low heather and cotton grass, patches of standing water as well as larger lochans. Here we saw three proper wild Red Deer, not the farmed variety.

After passing Forsinard RSPB, the road starts to descend towards the coast and there are a few slim green meadows along the river. As we hoped, a dozen black-aproned Golden Plover fed in the long grass. Best of all, a stonking male Whinchat perched on heather. Much brighter than any we have seen before and putting the book illustrations in the shade.

Forsinair is a bridge to a farm basically, where lovely Marsh Marigolds are at their best at this time of year.

Ladies Smock adorn the road verge.

 An information board indicates that it is a nature reserve of sorts.

The road terminates at Melvich where it joins the coastal A road, which we turned onto at 10.30. The 16 miles to Thurso seem much longer than that. Especially as it had clouded over and we had our first rain. Time to fill up with very expensive petrol and a Lidl stop for snacks.

Still raining as we turned off to Castletown Bay which extends to Dunnett Head. The bay was full of birds. At least 50 Divers, mostly Great Northerns with a few Black and Red-throated. Dozens of Auks - Guillemots, Razorbills and two Tysties, one of them changing from winter plumage, looking very mottled. Or was it a juvenile? The Terns were a mixture of Common and Arctic, largely the high pitched screaming latter. Three female Common Scoter huddled together in the middle of the bay. A small flock of mixed Ringed Plover and Dunlin, swooped restlessly about. Why don't they conserve their energy ........

Time to drive to Dunnett Head. Soon after the junction, a male Cuckoo perched on roadside wires, the cat amongst the poor plankton (everything preys on them), Meadow Pipits, gathered around him.

Still raining, so we passed St John's Loch and drove out to the Head car park - which has sprouted an RSPB hut. Walking down to the Lighthouse with eager anticipation, we were disappointed to find no sign of any Auks on the sea nor flying out from the cliffs. It's usually teeming. Plenty of nesting Fulmar, two Puffins appeared from nowhere and a couple of predatory Bonxies cruised through. A gate was open so I went through hoping for a more extensive view - not! Two Twite amongst the buildings though.

Twite

We moved to a further clifftop for lunch, from which we saw a Peregrine, Raven and a few Gannets - Pam spotted them whilst I was texting Bridget on Orkney.

Another shower dried up as we got to St John's and walked down to the old hide overlooking the loch, the new hide is still not ready. A blissful forty five minutes enjoying and photographing Arctic and Common Terns screaming their courtship displays. Females waiting and begging, males bringing in small sand eels as payment for the hoped for services.

I'm still not happy with my Arctic photos, they are so active and tend to settle further away from the hide. Flight shots are even worse. One settled on top of the Starling nesting tenement but rose as I clicked the shutter!

We dragged ourselves away at 3.00, paid Castletown Bay a quick visit and drove home on the A9. Another spectacular coastal route on a lovely evening. We were home by 6.45.

Such a Good Day

Man U beat Chelsea 2-1

Added to Norwich achieving automatic promotion to the Premiership, it's been a good week.

Monday May 9

Again, not an early start, I started cooking the mountain of mince we bought yesterday. Still on our way by 9 though.

We had a Red Squirrel on the nuts this morning, they are so endearing. The Mallard still has seven ducklings overnight, one of them is a maverick, always lagging behind, he may not last long.

No Slavonian Grebes visible on the roadside water before Boat of Garten, a few more padders in the form of Coot on its nest, Tufted Duck and a pair of Wigeon.

Loch Garten reserve was not open until 10, we were a little early. They have a couple of hours off after the early morning Capercaillie watch. The latter was the reason for our visit, nothing on the pager this year to indicate that birds were being seen. Two were seen this morning but the girl gave us the ampression that this was a rare occurrence.Oh dear... we shall still try in the morning though.

EJ, the female Osprey, is sitting on three eggs, her head viewable above the mountainous nest from time to time. Odin brought a fish at 5.30 and is unlikely to visit again to-day, visits become more frequent when the eggs hatch.

The walk alongside Loch Garten down to Loch Mallochie is where we have managed to see Crested Tit the last couple of years. As we left the car park, a camouflage clad photographer set up his big lens near the information board. Thinking nothing of it, we walked on, meeting a woman in a wheelchair who told us that there was a Crestie nest near the car park. We returned ! A dead tree, containing several holes was the nest site.

Small hole bottom right

The first view was a bird darting away from the hole, carrying a foecal sac. I then saw an adult Crested Tit perched in the hole, all but its tail visible - immediately after I had taken a photo of the nest site! Missed it. Could have stayed longer but decided to leave for Forest Lodge.

As we turned off the main road for Abernethy Forest Lodge, Pam saw two Crossbills fly into a roadside tree. A female Parrot Crossbill and one young. Great.

No-one else parked at the Lodge, a Tree Pipit singing away and the first of three Common Redstarts also singing. As we approached the old dog kennels, another Crested Tit showed beautifully just above our heads, bashing some prey against a branch and then foraging in the festooning lichen.TWO in one day.

We walked to the bridge and back before setting off for Findhorn Valley.

First stop, the Dipper bridge for a late lunch. No sign of a bird until Pam walked to the river edge and saw a Dipper on the Findhorn river, not the usual side stream. As I got there, I saw the adult bird fly to the edge under some overhanging trees, where it fed a wing-fluttering begging youngster.That's a first. I stalked the birds and got some pretty poor photos in the darkness of the trees against the stark contrast of the sun-lit sparkling water.

Our first rain of the day sent us back to the car and on up the valley to the parking spot. Very shortly, the heavy cloud descended making for poor visibility and bringing a heavy shower. We left....driving the Farr road, seeing even less than usual.

More rain as we arrived at Ruthven RSPB. We waited until it stopped, walked far enough to see a splendid golden eared male Slavonian Grebe, got wet and, beat a hasty retreat.

The Hotel is open to-night so was able to post the last two days Blog. This will have to wait until to-morrow.

　

　

, the Premiership is almost ours, two matches to go and we're 6 points ahead.

May 7-May 8 Mull-Carrbridge

Saturday May 7

Breakfasted, car packed and away by 8 a.m. We always enjoy our time at Seaview, John and Jane are great. Welcoming, friendly and they run a good establishment. The newly re-furbished Erraid (our room) was even better, the beds exceedingly comfortable.

In plenty of time, so we dropped in to Grass Point, seeing one Eagle fly in with prey, two more Stonechats and a trip addition, Great Spotted Woodpecker.

The ferry was a little late, 'medical emergency on the previous sailing' is what was cited. We didn't bother going on deck, cool and with occasional spitting rain.

After a big Tesco shop in Oban and a petrol stop - 15p a litre cheaper than that on Mull - we left for Carrbridge via Fort William and Newtonmore.A screaming group of six Swifts were our first this year, we often don't see them in Scotland. Despite warnings of heavy rain making driving conditions hazardous, we didn't get any at all.

Pam had forgotten our usual bird feeders and food, we bought some in Kingussie, we can always do with some new ones.

A notice on Fairwinds door told us that Silver Birch was open, no sign of Alison and Lindsay. The chalet has been refurbished this winter. New carpet, wallpaper, pine walling and furniture, looks good.

Whilst we were hanging up the feeders, Lindsay appeared to welcome us, asking after Aileen and Bridget. Alison then appeared cuddling a ten and a half month old Maltese terrier. Quite delightful but, he's waking them at 5 a.m.Lindsay later returned with a bottle of red wine which we enjoyed with our Chilli con Carne supper.

The Hotel is closed until Monday so no internet access until then, I didn't like to ask......They've taken the time off to settle the dog, Lucy.

Sunday May 8

I caught up with some much needed sleep at last, we didn't leave until 9.30. The forecast was for showers, some heavy, the north east coast seemed the best option. Burghead called....We went the pretty way, via Lochindorb and had seen eight Red Grouse, perched in the open, by the time we reached the Lodge. It being a Sunday there were more fishermen than birds.

Burghead Maltings area is not very salubrious but a magnet for good birds. An extensive rocky bay backed by rough ground on to which backs a row of houses.The sea was pretty rough this morning, plenty of birds, many of them rising and falling well out of sigh tin the troughs, others flying in circles of frenzy over a shoal of fish.

Our favourite parking place was largely occupied by a very large motorhome - much to Pam's disgust. We parked further west, me scanning the sea from the car initially - until I had a brief view of the Yellow-billed Diver. I hopped out , set up my scope and couldn't find the bird again! Disaster.

During the next hour and more, scanning from a bench, we ID'd Kittiwakes, Common Terns, Black-throated and Red-throated Divers, squadrons of Gannets and flights of Fulmar.As the tide came in, the birds disappeared, the wind got up and a shower drove us into the car to eat our lunch.

Returning to the Maltings area to scan again, an elderly man approached me to ask if I'd seen anything. Bless him, he told us that the YB Diver was off the west end. Five minutes later we'd BOTH got the hefty bird in our scopes, it's pale bill upturned like that of a Red-throated.

Some House Martins -few and far between this year - were collecting mud for their nests from a nearby puddle.

Findhorn Bay

Loch Flemington

Alturlie

What a smart bird- Ringed Plover - probably the Tundra race.

Home via a windy Lochindorb.

Mergansers with the wind up their tails.

had the expected flotilla of ducks in the middle of the water, not the Scaup expected but Red-breasted Mergansers, mostly males. Groups of Ringed Plover and Dunlin tested eyesight as they huddled amongst the stones. added Mute Swan, Moorhen, Tufted Duck and a Little Grebe. List padders. held no birds at all....amazing.

Last Day on Mull

Friday May 6

Last days are always a mixture of last chance to see and not driving too far. We started with a drive as far as we could go at Fidden, to the end farm which has a sign for the reserve of Knockvologan - walking only. Near here I saw my first Stonechat of the trip and we were to see 3 more to-day. Where have they been hiding? The cattle were out in force to enhance the view.

Not quite as good a view as from where we ate supper every night.

The lambs are delightful.

Via Penn-y Ghael and Loch Beg to the other side of Loch Scridain, stopping to photograph some Red Deer posing on an outcrop and a Common Sandpiper standing still for once.

About nine people sitting on lochside rocks, cameras at the ready, gave us a clue.....A beautiful dog Otter fishing, eating crabs, actively going about its business. We watched him for 20 minutes before driving off. He was a little distant for photos from the roadside but I got a couple worth keeping.

Only the sitting bird's head and shoulders visible on the White-tailed Eagle nest, no sign of the other adult coming in to take over.

Spot the nest.....

 After fifty minutes we left, returning via Scridain where they were still watching the Otter. No-one has been seeing one this week - until to-day.

Approaching Bunessan, a Golden Eagle soared overhead, soon spiralling out of sight behind a cloud. Sunny to-day but with a fair bit of cloud too.

A half mile from Bunessan is the unmarked turn off for the Scoor Estate. The tarmac soon runs out, the remaining track very potholed and rough, climbing up to the allowed 'car park' - a piece of rough ground along the track. Room for half a dozen cars. The view over an un-named lochan and Loch Assapol to the sea is stunning. We ate lunch, enjoying the dozens of Sand Martins flying like giant midges over the lochan surface. Our only Little Grebe of the trip popped up for a few minutes only.

Sudden panic... a male Hen Harrier rushed into sight before shooting off up a gully. It re-appeared flying fast across the mountain top, far too short a view of this charismatic bird.
A quad bike and trailer pulled up behind us, a tall and lean man got off and approached Pam's window. Oh Oh. He was utterly charming (James, John told us later), asking if we'd seen the Corncrakes on the lochan edge (!!). The Manchester boys are staying at his cottages and had found the birds earlier this week. He then asked if we'd been to the beach. Pam replied that we were not good walkers, drive there he said, you'll get there in this. A mile down a rutted track later, we arrived at a most beautiful white sand bay, one of many without a name, only accessible via the sea and this farm track.

Pam walked down - she's that dot!

We felt privileged.

A Rainy Day

Thursday May 5

What to do on a rainy day in Mull? Not alot. It started off dry in Fioinnphort but it soon became a drizzle with high clouds. This was the pattern for most of the day until late afternoon when the rain became serious.

A single Golden Plover flew in to Loch Beg marsh as we drove to Loch Buie, which is 8 miles off the main road to Craignure. Not even any Wheatears around to-day. Arriving at the sea, a single first summer Great Northern Diver loitered inshore.

Craignure Spar for bananas - and other sundries (!), a scan of the Mull Sound from Fishnish and on to Loch na Kiel W T Eagle nesting area. It kept us waiting an hour whilst we ate lunch, before flying in from across the loch behind us.

Home via Grass Point and another two W T Eagles, one sitting in a tree and the other flying in. Mull's oldest breeding pair can't be nesting this year. We reckon we've seen eleven different White-tailed this week. Excellent.
Supper in our favourite spot at Fidden before returning to the warmth of our room.
John met us, he'd oiled the squeaky bathroom door which wakes me when Pam goes to the loo in the night and, fixed the soap dispenser. He also confessed to Lainie - the 10 month old pup-running off with Pam's flip flop which was slightly chewed. She'd done that once this morning before we left, obviously fancied it. Pam thought it was really funny as she makes a big fuss of both dogs, Lainie and her mother Megan, who visit us regularly. I think Pam leaves the door open on purpose !

Corncrakes and Caves

Wednesday May 4

What a superb day.

We were on the first ferry to Iona this morning (the 8.45) , accompanied by the workers and three men and one woman wearing rucksacks. By 9.05 we were behind the fire station, where we also found the team of four. The latter turned out to be a group of Masters students from Manchester who were doing research on Corncrakes. One of them vaulted the fence, placed a recording device in the field and sprinted back. As soon as a male called, they waited 5.5 minutes and triggered their own recording. This was the pattern. Pam was the first and I the second to spot a Corncrake, we then continued to see him as he worked his way stealthily around, ending up next to the recorder at one time. Eventually we had to point him out to them ! We actually saw a whole bird in the relative open. The other views were the usual head and shoulders and one Graucho Marx type crouching run. Brilliant, the best ever.

The team went on to other territories and we walked to the Abbey, had a coffee in the Columba Hotel posh lounge, along with passengers from the cruise ship anchored in the Sound and returned on the mid-day ferry.

The cruise had started in Falmouth, called at Tresco, Anglesey and Rathlin Island and were off to St Kilda this afternoon. Next stops Shetland and Orkney ending in Leith next Sunday. Two old ladies told us!

Six Common Terns in the Sound on the return journey.

A quick lunch before taking the 2.00 boat to Staffa, the Iolante - it was packed having started on Iona. Davy and the crew were fantastic, helpful very knowledgeable and so pleasant. According to John, Davy was a fisherman of lobsters who couldn't get his head round the trend towards crabs - which he used to throw away - and is harder. He took over the Iolante and is a legend in the area.

The ride out was pretty reasonable, a bit of a swell building up. We ticked Gannet, a Razorbill, six Guillemots and 3 Puffins. We were on the correct side of the boat to get terrific views of Staffa and Fingals Cave, unlike last time.

Everyone, apart from us, got off to walk to the cave and  to the tops to look for Puffins. Two people quickly got back on and the crew told us that we had to move away as there was another boat coming in. Off we set and.......drove right into the opening to Fingals Cave! I had my long lens on so could only picture a part of the modern art looking roof.

We then spent the next half an hour travelling the entire circumference of Staffa, seeing hundreds of Puffins, two Bonxies , a pair of Ravens and six Tysties. Waving to the rest of our group as we went - they were toiling up the rock. Absolutely brilliant.

Shags

We travelled back in a big swell, into the wind, passengers on the other side of the boat got drenched.

A memorable day.