A Rainy Day

Thursday May 5

What to do on a rainy day in Mull? Not alot. It started off dry in Fioinnphort but it soon became a drizzle with high clouds. This was the pattern for most of the day until late afternoon when the rain became serious.

A single Golden Plover flew in to Loch Beg marsh as we drove to Loch Buie, which is 8 miles off the main road to Craignure. Not even any Wheatears around to-day. Arriving at the sea, a single first summer Great Northern Diver loitered inshore.

Craignure Spar for bananas - and other sundries (!), a scan of the Mull Sound from Fishnish and on to Loch na Kiel W T Eagle nesting area. It kept us waiting an hour whilst we ate lunch, before flying in from across the loch behind us.

Home via Grass Point and another two W T Eagles, one sitting in a tree and the other flying in. Mull's oldest breeding pair can't be nesting this year. We reckon we've seen eleven different White-tailed this week. Excellent.
Supper in our favourite spot at Fidden before returning to the warmth of our room.
John met us, he'd oiled the squeaky bathroom door which wakes me when Pam goes to the loo in the night and, fixed the soap dispenser. He also confessed to Lainie - the 10 month old pup-running off with Pam's flip flop which was slightly chewed. She'd done that once this morning before we left, obviously fancied it. Pam thought it was really funny as she makes a big fuss of both dogs, Lainie and her mother Megan, who visit us regularly. I think Pam leaves the door open on purpose !

Corncrakes and Caves

Wednesday May 4

What a superb day.

We were on the first ferry to Iona this morning (the 8.45) , accompanied by the workers and three men and one woman wearing rucksacks. By 9.05 we were behind the fire station, where we also found the team of four. The latter turned out to be a group of Masters students from Manchester who were doing research on Corncrakes. One of them vaulted the fence, placed a recording device in the field and sprinted back. As soon as a male called, they waited 5.5 minutes and triggered their own recording. This was the pattern. Pam was the first and I the second to spot a Corncrake, we then continued to see him as he worked his way stealthily around, ending up next to the recorder at one time. Eventually we had to point him out to them ! We actually saw a whole bird in the relative open. The other views were the usual head and shoulders and one Graucho Marx type crouching run. Brilliant, the best ever.

The team went on to other territories and we walked to the Abbey, had a coffee in the Columba Hotel posh lounge, along with passengers from the cruise ship anchored in the Sound and returned on the mid-day ferry.

The cruise had started in Falmouth, called at Tresco, Anglesey and Rathlin Island and were off to St Kilda this afternoon. Next stops Shetland and Orkney ending in Leith next Sunday. Two old ladies told us!

Six Common Terns in the Sound on the return journey.

A quick lunch before taking the 2.00 boat to Staffa, the Iolante - it was packed having started on Iona. Davy and the crew were fantastic, helpful very knowledgeable and so pleasant. According to John, Davy was a fisherman of lobsters who couldn't get his head round the trend towards crabs - which he used to throw away - and is harder. He took over the Iolante and is a legend in the area.

The ride out was pretty reasonable, a bit of a swell building up. We ticked Gannet, a Razorbill, six Guillemots and 3 Puffins. We were on the correct side of the boat to get terrific views of Staffa and Fingals Cave, unlike last time.

Everyone, apart from us, got off to walk to the cave and  to the tops to look for Puffins. Two people quickly got back on and the crew told us that we had to move away as there was another boat coming in. Off we set and.......drove right into the opening to Fingals Cave! I had my long lens on so could only picture a part of the modern art looking roof.

We then spent the next half an hour travelling the entire circumference of Staffa, seeing hundreds of Puffins, two Bonxies , a pair of Ravens and six Tysties. Waving to the rest of our group as we went - they were toiling up the rock. Absolutely brilliant.

Shags

We travelled back in a big swell, into the wind, passengers on the other side of the boat got drenched.

A memorable day.

Where are all the Birds?

Tuesday May 3

Nothing to see at Uisken this morning, when Pam discovered that she'd left the ice blocks back at Seaview. After a return journey we birded our way to the coastal road to Salen via Lochs Scridain and Beg, seeing one Great Northern Diver and a Red-throated.

Enough room for us to park, in the rocky layby from which one can view a White-tailed Eagle's nest. I'd planned to spend some time digiscoping the nest......Firstly only the heads of the two birds were visible, then there was heat haze AND, I spent my time showing passers by the nest through my scope. None of them had a scope and hadn't a clue where to see it.

One woman was from Guernsey and amazed to find so many birders on Mull. She'd failed to book for the Loch Frisa trip as they were full for a week. I'd heard that Skye and Frisa hadn't laid this year anyway and had swapped nests twice.

We drove on to the western end of Loch na Kiel, found a grassy gnoll, parked and ate our lunch there. Another GND in the bay, one Golden Plover for the trip list and our first sighting of Cuckoo.

After a leisurely drive home, we again suppered at Fidden watching Ringed Plover, a single Dunlin and a Whimbrel.

A handsome Herring Gull was keeping watch over the half a roll I'd thrown out.

The tour guides are still complaining about the lack of birds due to the good weather.It's due to change on Thursday.

Moving On

Monday May 2
Last breakfast with Cathy before setting off on a glorious spring morning - temperature more akin to summer.
A last look at the reedbed and two Sedge Warblers singing at last, saying thank goodness the wind had dropped I reckon. Not a lot on the river so, quickly on to Salen and the turn off for Loch Na Kiel. As soon as we pulled up, a White-tailed Eagle was visible, spiralling above the conifer belt. I took some rather distant photos.

Petrol (exorbitant at £148.9) and a Spa shop before stopping in the off road raised layby we used yesterday to see the perched Golden Eagle.No sign of him but we saw a Tree Pipit, two Redpoll collecting nesting material and a Willow Warbler constructing the first vague cup of its nest.

Lesser Redpoll

We discovered a good parking area near the Fishnish Ferry terminal in a previous visit. A wooded and grassy area with picnic tables and parking spots overlooking the sound between Mull and Ardnamurchan Peninsula. A ferry went out, 

a Tystie flew by and, biggest surprise, The Waverley, the world's only remaining sea going paddle steamer, chuffed by.

Grass Point to scope another Sea Eagle perched in a distant tree near its nest and to take a decent photo of a Willow Warbler at last.

We lunched in an area where we had previously see Hen Harrier after a distant Golden Eagle view. Nothing much around to-day so we drove on towards Fionnphort (pronounced Finfert). Brian was parked outside Pen-y -Ghael P.O and shop with his tour group, bemoaning the lack of birds - weather too good ! He greeted us nicely, as did his wife, we're good ice-cream customers. We then took the unmarked  turning to Loch Assapol. It's lovely up there but again nothing on the water apart from the perennial Greylags, no goslings yet. We spent our time admiring the dear little black-faced and kneed lambs and the tireless display flights of a male Wheatear.
As soon as we parked outside Seaview, Jane rushed out to see us, soon joined by John. After a catch-up, John took our clematis round the back to look after with his and they both showed us our newly revamped bedroom. It looks excellent and there's a splendid new shower instead of the bath with shower over it.  New beds too. Great.
After unpacking - a bit anyway - we drove the two miles to Fidden to eat supper overlooking a silver sea rimmed with seaweed strewn sand. A Mountain Hare fed happily along the verge, most uncharacteristically un-alarmed. 

Twelve Dunlin and twelve Tundra sub.sp. Ringed Plover scurried along, made sudden flights, returning to a different area. A pair of Twite fed on the weed and a White Wagtail pranced past. It was all lovely.

As is obvious, I've managed to sort Google and my Blog at last by downloading Chrome. I'll add a few pics now, but the rest will have to wait.

Arthur's Funnies and Raptors

May 1

Yet another gloriously sunny and clear day. The pattern seems to be still first thing, windy most of the day, abating in the afternoon. To-day was less windy than yesterday but gusty enough, my face burns to-night.

Arthur picked us up at 9.40 in a comfortable Ford Tourneo. Pam and I sat in the front until lunch time and then in the back seat which was actually more comfortable. More leg room and less high to get in and out.Three other older couples made for a full van.
Calgary again, couldn't resist a photo this time.

Calgary beach

We had a thoroughly enjoyable day, the highlight being 5 White-tailed Eagles in the air at once, relatively close, at Loch na Kiel. A sixth came in and was probably on the nest. They were all adults, two pairs invading a territory causing the yips of rage from the owning pair. Fantastic, a lifetime experience I would think. We later saw another White T in the air at the same time as we were watching a Golden Eagle perched on a hilltop. An earlier Goldie was being harried by a Hen Harrier.

We also lucked on to a female Merlin crossing the water to the Isle of Ulva.

Arthur is very amusing, most informative and knowledgeable, I can recommend his tours to anyone. The choice from three biscuits at 11, the soup and sandwiches at lunch time and the cake for tea were all home made and very good too.

We again enjoyed our evening meal parked overlooking the loch. Beautiful. We are very tired to-night though. Off to Phionphort in the morning.

Ridlington - Dumbarton - Dervaig

Thursday April 28

Left home at 6.15 a.m. and had a leisurely, trouble-free journey under a cloudless blue sky, to Dumbarton TraveLodge. We followed a different route through Glasgow (AA, keeping on the bypass motorway until Junction 30 which took us off in Dumbarton, missing all of Glasgow’s streets and fast food joints (I usually read out all the names to Pam - she was relieved).

The Lodge is not one of the newer ones but clean and well kept. Our room was upstairs at the back, looking out over a field and trees to the river Clyde beyond. In between was the railway line ! With the windows shut, the noise was minimal. We slept well.

Friday April 29

For the first time ever , I’d ordered a breakfast when I booked, not exactly Slimming World food. We decided to lump it, eating the cornflakes, croissant, muffin and orange juice looking over Loch Lomond. Beautiful, as was the pair of Red-breasted Mergansers fishing for breakfast.

Another lovely morning to enjoy the loch side road to Crianlarich and then through the moors, enveloping mountains, stony streams and scrub down to the more wooded areas approaching Oban. We always stop at Strone parking spot, the usual Willow Warblers and Siskins to-day, we once saw a Tree Pipit here. 

The previous walkers’ parking area produced a Golden Eagle for us. It appeared over the mountain top, gliding down to perch on a rocky outcrop.

Another usual stop is at a pull off near the Loch Awe dam wall, occupied by a salmon fisherman packing up after a catching a 14 pound salmon. He always puts them back.....This one was newly returned from the sea, either last night or this morning, still covered in sea lice which are killed off by freshwater. Amazing what you learn from random strangers. He showed us a photo on his camera.

We lunched at our favourite bay, taking the sea-side road north of Oban. Much building has gone on since last year, very tasteful apartments and houses looking out over the bay.

After shopping in Tesco, we took the 20 minutes late CalMac ferry to Craignure. Flat calm sea, warm enough on the top deck for bare arms, very few birds.

En route

A few of the expected and delightful Tysties outside Oban.

Enough time to make a 12 mile round trip to Grass Point before taking the Tobermory road to Dervaig, turning off at Aros Bridge.

Grass Point Highlands

Dervaig is further from Tobermory than I’d expected, ten miles across moorland, coniferous forest, much of the latter had been logged, and sheep pasture to a small village. A few houses, a shop, a pub and a church with a hideous tall and column like white cement steeple.



Our B and B

Tigh na Mara, our B and B, is delightful. A very substantial building on a hill overlooking the river and loch, lovely views from the well kept grounds. Catherine was ironing when we arrived, showing us to our well appointed and very attractive double room. 

We ate our evening meal at a picnic table outside looking over the water, seeing our first House Martin of the year. We’ve also added Hooded Crow, Shag, Common Sandpiper and Cuckoo.

We then caught up with the Royal Wedding, watching on the big TV in the lounge/breakfast room. Sara phoned when we were parked this morning to ask if we’d seen VB’s hat. she was watching in Australia.

The biggest disppointment to-day was the whale trip company phoning to say they’d cancelled to-morrow’s trip as there were not enough people. News that they’d only seen one whale so far was comforting. We’re going on a two hour late afternoon trip instead.

Saturday April 30

Woke to another beautiful morning, unfortunately the wind becaming increasingly stronger and very blustery.

After a leisurely and very good breakfast and a chat with Catherine - she too goes to Slimming World - we drove to Treloisk and on to Calgary. Pausing for a scan down the loch from a layby, adding a Whimbrel, we continued on the single track road with parking places through wild moorland down to the sea - where the track is even narrower with fewer passing places, on the way to Calgary. Calgary is a stunning white shell-sand bay, the sea patches of indigo, Caribbean blue with paler blue streaks. Photos not possible and couldn’t possibly do it justice. The sand marred by only three humans strolling along. The only area of machair on Mull backs the campsite here and is not protected at all.

 A visit to the Old Byre Heritage Centre outside Dervaig to buy some postcards and a pair of earrings (!) before taking the road toTobermory . There we found a full car park, what looked like a motorhome rally, and a large crowd drinking outside the pub. Owing to the gale force wind, Pam cancelled our planned boat trip and claimed my money back.

We then left the holiday mob behind and drove to the Glengorm Castle Estate. At the top of the hill north of Tobermory, we came upon an appalling stench - and a field containing at least 15 Ravens amongst the gulls. A nearby sewage farm gave the clue to the source of the smell, a farmer had sprayed the field with noxious fluid earlier. As soon as we stopped, all the Ravens flew off so no photo opportunity.

Glengorm was a dead end away from the sea, the road private from the gateway onwards. Returning to a gateway with a view,we had a cup of coffee and enjoyed the scenery. Here we were approached by an American woman asking for a lift to Tobermory. Pam said we weren’t going there - true - we were turning off to Dervaig earlier. I felt sorry for her.....Ten minutes later we picked her up en route. She’s from Houston Texas via Tennessee and rather deaf which didn’t stop her talking non stop. She’d walked miles and hadn’t been able to get  a taxi to drive back to her B and B., all too busy. 

After dropping a grateful oldie with bad feet, we drove back to the layby at Dervaig to eat our supper. The tide was now in, the loch and river gleaming gold and silver in the dropping sun. Lovely. Common Sandpiper, the ubiquitous highland wader, and a Greenshank and Redshank to add to the list.

Catherine had offered to get the papers for us, she’s a sweetie, they were waiting in the bedroom.

We again retired to the lounge to check our end of the month lists and Scotland list in comfort. Another fine day forecast for our day out with Arthur Brown to-morrow.

Dots and Turtles

Monday April 25

An early start to avoid the crowds......we arrived at THE field between Docking and Chosely soon after 8 a.m. The beet field opening was conveniently opposite a concrete beet pad, plenty of room for parking. Not so good for bird views though. The birds were far across the field, the other side of a ridge and dip, viewable only as moving blobs in the heat haze.

Spotting a gateway in the far corner of the field and, what looked like a lane leading to it, we set off, finding the lane was metalled and easy access. About a dozen people had beaten us to it, room for my scope though and excellent views of sixteen Dotterel, feeding and making short- step sorties - as they do. After 20 minutes, we vacated our viewpoint to let others in, breakfasting at Thornham.

We set off for Friary Hills Blakeney, soon after leaving Thornham village, a pager alert told us of Wood Sandpipers and a Ring Ouzel at Holme, so we turned round.

Unsure of the location, we walked to Gore Point in a cold north wind and lovely sunshine. Nothing....

Why? The birds were on Redwell! Parking at the hide entrance gate, a passing woman told us they were only viewable from the path leading to Holme village along the back of the marsh. Another reversal and parking near the entry kiosk.

As we walked the path, a Nightingale sang from the same patch in the Paddocks and.......all the birds took off, the waders amongst the gulls and Lapwings. I met Sue Bryan who had just photographed the Wood Sands !

The morning didn't improve. We couldn't find Ring Ouzel at Friary Hills either - no-one else was successful which helped a very little bit.

Tuesday April 29

On the way home from an early hairdresser appointment, a Turtle Dove was seen perched on the wires and then flying off in the 'usual' area near the Seal Sanctuary. Good to see one back.