Saturday, 5 May 2012

Scotland April 26 - May 4


 April 26
Away by 4.30 a.m., I wasn’t feeling my best after a mere 3 hours sleep, I finished packing the car like an automaton.
It was raining as we left and continued to do so – in variable intensity – for most of the day. We had particularly torrential stuff in northern Yorkshire through into Northumberland. Apart from a petrol and much needed loo, we didn’t stop until Scotch Corner, where we breakfasted at the far end of the car park near the wood, as always.
We dropped in to Cove so that Pam could see the lovely little monument to the wives and children devastated by the loss of a fishing boat and their menfolk.
Skatteraw is a must, our favourite stopping place. The tide was well out, making its way back in, floating the eiders off their rocky resting places. Passing Gannets luminous against the navy sky. Two Whimbrel fed on the grassy bank in front of us, joined by a Curlew. They were very flighty, often flying away behind us for no apparent reason, before returning to repeat the action.

The usual call at North Berwick to view Bass Rock, white with thousands of Gannets and their guano. Visibility not good to-day, the auks were flying too distantly to identify.


Bass Rock - very poor visibility (did I need to say that !)
Edinburgh. Well, the interminable ring road which takes one part of the way to Glasgow before crossing the Forth Bridge. A notice tells us that a new bridge is being built but I saw no evidence of a start.
Tired by now, we signed in to Glenrothes Travelodge, paid for internet access which kept crashing out, after 20+attempts to log in….never had trouble before. Waste of time and money. In bed by 10.

April 27
Such a delight to wake to a sunny morning. A 7.10 a.m. start saw us arrive in Newburgh at a pretty low tide. Not much hope of finding the King Eider….and we didn’t. No terns yet and the only waders Curlew.

Cransdale Lookout near Collieston is another favourite – and it didn’t disappoint. Hundreds of dove-grey backed Kittiwakes wheeled past, auks flew distantly, two Red-throated Divers in fine summer livery, Fulmar and, the cream to-day, an Arctic Skua. Our first Rock Pipits this year and, genuine Rock Doves, all showed whilst Pam ate her muesli breakfast.
A quick stop at Cruden Bay and its quaint shed café amongst the lobster and crab pots where Pam could get an ice-cream – none suitable for me unfortunately.
What is it with us and Starnafin Farm RSPB reserve? Last year Big Sit listers in the centre hide so we couldn’t say what we were seeing, nor find much space, and a noisy group in the parking area. This year, a class of upper juniors on their lunch break in the area below the viewing platform. Very excited and noisy until the ‘lesson’ re-commenced – an RSPB rep extolling the virtues of the RSPB young explorers group. It was raining too, after a lovely morning.

Very few birds to see, most unusual, we love this place. A few Curlew, Wigeon, Teal, one distant Whooper Swan and many Gulls. The school party bus driver had started his engine in the car park, flooding the air with noxious diesel fumes, probably near asphyxiating the Tree Sparrows feeding nearby.
Undeterred, we togged up and trudged to Tower Hide which is about a mile’s walk (probably less but didn’t seem like it in a cold wind with occasional rain spatters). The hide is a puzzlement, it’s single storey overlooking acres of –to-day – very wet marsh with large pools dotted around. Viewing what looked like a ruined windmill base encouraged the reading of the info at the back of the hide. It’s known as The Tower (hence the hide’s name?) and is the ruin of a water drainage mill dating back to 1790, it’s a listed building. 


Fore-shortened view from the Tower Hide, zoom used.
We were on our own so we stayed for an hour seeing only Sand Martins over a big pool to the west. The rain stopped….the sun appeared and so did the birds. A Short-eared Owl quartered the grassy area in front of the hide, giving us our closest and lengthiest views ever. Lovely. 


Pam's photo of the Short-eared Owl, she's much more skilful than I with her Powershot.
Our first Sedge Warbler tuned up from the reedbed and about 20 Curlew appeared from nowhere amongst the sedges in a wet meadow. They must have been hiding from the rain. So must the Greater Yellowlegs which I found near the Tower, distant but good through the scope. The digiscoped photo isn't ! It's laughable, but, you can see the leg colour.....




We haven’t seen one for some time. A Redshank strolled into view too. All in a magical final 30 minutes.
Happy, we drove to St Coombs, a 17C fishing village, where we ate a very late lunch overlooking a lovely, deserted sandy bay with creaming waves rolling in. Bliss. The stream of seabirds flying through enhanced our enjoyment of the view.





We found Carnbulg Harbour last year, where one can imagine that no-one else exists. The wrecked ship still remains, caught fast in the rocks, seemingly impervious to the relentless attack of the sea. 


Huge rollers here and many thousands of birds in the hour we stayed. A constant heavy stream of Gannets, and all the gull species, mostly the latter, even more Kittiwakes again. Two Whimbrel flew restlessly around, a dozen or so Shags and Cormorants perching on the bow of the wreck.
Time to find our B and B for the night, Rose Lodge near New Leeds. Only a 20 minute drive, guided by the SatNav across country.

April 28
The B and B was very comfortable, the people most welcoming and the breakfast at 7.00 well cooked and free from fat. Mrs had said we could have breakfast as early as we liked. This morning we realised why…..it was cooked by Mr !! We shall use it again.
Our first stop was MacDuff at 8.30, where we drove straight to the harbour. The town is multi level housing set into the hillside, a row of very well kept cottages on the seashore itself, both the dwellings and the harbour dating back to the 17C. 


Pam's photo
The shore was fringed by incredibly jagged rocks, like craggy molars. The tide was coming in too, throwing spray high into the air and, unpleasant looking spume pooling onto the sand between.





Through Banff, a grey granite Scottish town, to Whitehills and then Portsoy, another 17C harbour.
Spey Bay is not one of our usual calls, we usually visit the north shore of the river to  look for the many Goosanders which congregate here.  The south shore is much more pleasant and is a nature reserve. We parked looking over the river mouth and immediately spotted Goosanders on the far side. They very quickly – at the approach of a man and his dog  - took off. There were 28 in total, why here? The main river channel is narrow, very fast flowing indeed, with pools and creeks beyond which is where the birds prefer to loiter on the islands.
No sign of the Yellow-billed Diver at Burghead, not good on a fast falling tide. A good variety of bird though. Razorbills, Guillemots, Red-throated Divers, a Red-necked Grebe, Long-tailed Ducks and Common Scoter. Always worth a look here.
Findhorn Bay was empty sea to-day but….we did see an Osprey flying up river as we meandered through the gorse.
Nothing at Alturlie either save plenty of Saturday visitors, x country motor bikes and a vast area of mud with a few Hooded Crows and a pair of Mergansers beyond.
Tesco shopping for the week before a return to Forres and an abortive hunt for a reported Snow Goose amongst Pinkfeet. I saw four of the latter fly away. We ended up in the lanes but our SatNav guided us safely onto the Lochindorb road. I’ve never seen the loch as full, it had flooded the road in several places. No edge at all for the usual Sandpipers.


Scottish Black-faced Sheep. The lambs are so attractive, black face markings and black 'knees'.
Alison and Lyndsey met us outside Fairwinds Hotel, they tell us that the flooding is the result of the previous 2 days very heavy rain.
Silver Birch chalet is in the hotel grounds overlooking a small lochan and surrounded by immensely tall conifers and lichen enshrouded birch. It’s been our home here for more than 20 years. Car emptied and shopping stashed, the first job is to hang up the bird feeders on nearby Birch. Very tired to-night after three days travelling, we were early to bed.



April 29
A really leisurely start to the day, we didn’t leave the chalet until 10 a.m. A further delay, I cleared the rubbish into the giant bin near the church and Pam chatted with the girls and petted Lucy, their delightful Maltese Terrier. She’s tiny and looks almost legless.
After very very heavy overnight frost – the lochan was covered in cracked, mosaic shards of sparkling ice – a perfect spring day. Blue sky, an increasingly warm sun and the merest hint of wind. The Red Squirrel has already found our sunflower heart feeder, he enjoyed them last year. 




The new glaucous growth on the conifers glistened in the sunshine. A  joyous, good to be alive, morning.
Wanting an easy day, we drove to our beloved Findhorn Valley, the drive is so lovely that any birds are a bonus. Knowing we’ll see the major raptors on Mull takes the heat off. First stop, Glen Mazeran Bridge where enormous tree trunks have been placed so that we can no longer drive off the road onto a flat area before the bridge. Why? Maybe people have camped there or something. I scanned from the bridge whilst Pam explored the river bank to locate the calling Common Sandpipers. Under the trees overhanging the near bank, I saw what looked like a large water boatman skittering across the water and then disappearing under. Dipper. Only two stones in view, showing above the water, it must have been using submerged ones. One of the stones then sprouted 3 birds, two adults and a young.
Findhorn car park already had 8 cars parked, we pulled in behind one which soon departed. We stayed over an hour seeing no raptors at all, on what seemed to be a perfect morning. We’d seen one Buzzard on the way up and the usual Oystercatchers, Curlew and gulls. A single Swallow flew around hawking insects, they’re scarce this year, held up in an unseasonably cold Spain. Some dying from lack of food we’re told.
The Farr road…..we never see much in this eight miles of very narrow track, loved by motorcyclists and cyclists. To-day, we started with two Tree Pipits on the first low section before the climb up to the wonderfully bleak moorland. Not flat terrain, many deep valleys and stream gullies to the layered mountains beyond, the highest, snow topped. Heather covered, some of it bearing large patches of bleached, skeletal stems, a result of controlled burning. We lunched in a large layby with a view, seeing a Red Grouse fly across the heather below. Our first wheatear, a male, flashed off the road onto a distant perch as we dropped down into Farr.

Loch Ruthven RSPB. A small car park with room for us. The walk to the hide was a penance. The first section very wet, thick boggy mud with pools through which to splash. The path climbing up through the woods is narrow with many stand up tree roots to negotiate and, large boulders to climb/teeter around. I heard the first snatch of a Wood Warbler song amongst the Chaffinches and Willow Warblers.
We had the hide to ourselves. Great. Not even an assistant. We made the most of it staying an hour or so, me attempting photos of 5 Slavonian Grebes through dirty windows which couldn’t be opened. Probably futile as they were so distant, even the nearest pair in the only partly showing reedbed to the left. The male dived, coming up with weed to build the flooded nest a few times, before giving up. 


Two adult Red-throated Divers patrolled the far side and, Little Grebe occasionally appeared in front of us. A male Reed Bunting flew in to a small waterside bush and then departed. So did we – for a very late lunch in the car park after the muddy trek back.

Loch Ruthven from the bank before the climb to the Hide. The Grebes nest in the pale green growth showing above the water on the left of the picture.
Station Road had no birds at all apart from the ubiquitous gulls and Oystercatchers. Home early to catch up with three days Blog writing, I shall have to wait before I can post it. No photograph additions until I get home, my editing programme has disappeared from my laptop. Weird. I used it throughout Australia and I haven’t removed it from the machine. Mysterious technology.
The Hotel is empty until Wednesday but two other chalets are occupied, one of the big ones near the house and Pinewood next door to us. These two are the originals.

April 30
Holiday? No, a birding trip. We left the chalet at 5.35 a.m. in light rain, we nearly went back to bed. Rain and birding, they don’t like it either.
At 6.00 we were alone in watching two Black Grouse, not displaying, sitting around their lekking ground. On to Loch Garten for the early Capercaillie watch. As soon as we walked into the centre, it was obvious that one was being watched. How jammy was that…A female sitting on a horizontal branch, feeding, her lovely, scallop edged shades of brown and grey plumage showing well in the scope. Five minutes later, I saw the male, walking slowly along the ground, again feeding.  Awesome bird. Years since we had such good views and, even longer since we saw a female.
Back to the chalet for breakfast and pack ready for the day. Where should we go in the rain? Inverness area might be drier. Slochd Summit had horizontal sleet…….
Alturlie was a mud bank again but we saw 6 Scaup this time, two of them males, half a dozen Curlew and a single Whimbrel.
On to Inverness Information Centre the other side of the Kessock Bridge. Mainly to pick up a tide timetable – it turned out to be a printed sheet for to-day only. Useful info for Tollie Red Kite Centre though, on the Ullapool road. We called in to suss it out, as we entered their approach road, a Red Kite flew directly overhead. The feeding takes place at 2.30, we decided to come back for it.

Still pouring down……
Marybank is the entry to Strathconon, a lovely glen along the river Conon. Nearly fifteen miles along it is the pull off where we used to see a Golden Eagle nest. The pull off contained two badly parked cars, we parked nearby on a verge. After half an hour or so they left and we moved in. Maybe the nest has moved again, it’s three or more years since we came up here. We’d decided to move on at 1.00, we both got out of the car to get comfortable. I looked up and saw a Golden Eagle fly across the narrow valley, mobbed by crows. It flew along the ridge and landed in a tree on the hillside opposite. A splendid adult bird, its golden mantle shining brightly even in overcast conditions. I tried some digiscoping of a wet bird in dim light. (excuse for photo).



Golden Eagle


The rain was starting to ease and had stopped completely by the time we left for Tollie. The latter is a converted barn, the RSPB own it in a joint venture with the local landowner who approached them with the idea. The RSPB rep. gave us an interesting and factual talk about Red Kites and their habits and told us not to expect many birds. He was right. After he’d laid out a kilo of venison pieces – they’re only allowed to use game – the circling local male swooped down and took off with a piece of meat. They never stay to eat. 


Red Kite male showing his blue wing-tag - introduced bird. The other tag shows the year of birth.
He did so several times before being joined by a Raven and a couple of Carrion Crows. This population of Kites is not flourishing, so many are shot and poisoned. Local schools used to sponsor a bird but were so upset when one was killed that it’s now a business sponsorship scheme.
We left and shopped in Tesco on the way home. The Hotel was locked once more, we only have a key to the front porch door, no internet again. What a bore.
Another early start to-morrow, we shall retire early.(9.00p.m ! When did I last do that?).

May 1
What a lovely day. Sunshine, temperature rising to 13C, little wind, beautiful scenery and ……..colours.  Mediterranean blue sea to set off the mile after mile of deserted sandy beaches and  rocky coastline. The greens of softly unfurling leaves on spring trees, lush greens of winter wheat and the faded greens of seaside pasture. The yellow patchwork of rape crops, startling against the hillsides, rich butter yellow gorse, roadside verge dandelions and clumps of marsh marigolds.
It didn’t start like that. We set off at 5.50 in fog which lasted all the way to Inverness in varying density. 0C at Slochd, 1C in Inverness. The fog dissipated and the sun shone all day. The birds were good too.
Embo was the first port of call, the place where one drives through the caravan park onto a small concrete jetty – full of sand to-day. Long-tailed Ducks, Eider, Cormorant and Common Scoter, no waders at all, an indication of the day to come if we’d known.
Pam breakfasted at The Mound the other side of Dornoch Firth. Still no waders apart from two Common Sandpipers, there are often 6 or more. Two Red breasted Mergansers, one Teal and a dozen Black-headed Gulls. As we were packing to leave, a small skein of 16 Pink-footed Geese flew through.
At Helmsdale, a left turn onto the Melvich Road through the Flow Country. It starts off very gently along a river through gorse clad hillsides and, gnarled lichen-clad oak.
About 5 miles after Helmsdale, whilst passing through one of the oak copses, I heard a Redstart song. We parked and Pam located a beautiful male serenading the morning from the top of an oak.
The road gradually climbs to moorland with sheep and lambs a real traffic hazard. Now, the cars all carry fishing rods strapped to bonnet and roof. The first Wheatears and a myriad Meadow Pipits. A functional railway line snakes its way up too, often used by aficionados just to say they’ve been. The summit is at Forsinard station where the RSPB have a small office and video room. We use the loo there and to-day, a hot drink from the machine. We arrived at 9.45 staying about half an hour chatting to the Warden and his very helpful assistant. She leads walks at Dunnet Head on a Wednesday. There were twelve pairs of Hen Harriers on the reserve last year, a tribute to their work here.
On the descent to the coast, just the one Golden Plover on a riverside field and a male Stonechat atop a heather clump.
Dunnet Bay and a stop at the Castletown end. So calm to-day. We are accustomed to seeing many divers, terns, Ringed Plover and Dunlin here. We worked hard for one Great Northern, one Red-throated, a Guillemot and six Arctic Terns perched on a fishing rig. Just as well we saw the latter, St John’s Pool on the way to Dunnet Head is normally teeming with them. None. 220 pairs of nesting Black-headed Gulls, 5 pairs of Lapwing, one Redshank, 1 Teal, 3 Wigeon and a few Coot and Moorhens were found eventually. Splendid new hide though, the RSPB should take a look at it.


St John's Loch - Black-headed Gull heaven
We’re too early this year and birds are late returning due to the recent bad weather on the continent, especially Spain. The calm weather doesn’t bring the seabirds in for shelter either.

The assistant warden at Forsinard had told us that no Puffins had returned to the auk colony at Dunnet Head. We walked down to the lookout point and saw three. There were thousands of Kittiwakes in large rafts, feeding all around. The Razorbills and Guillemots were lost amongst them. One Gannet cruised by as did a plethora of Fulmar.


Fulmar
 ‘Proper’ Rock Doves shot through, I still haven’t managed a photo. We also walked down to the lighthouse to try for a better view of the auk cliffs. There wasn’t.
Onto the cliffs for a late lunch, one Raven wheeled through, hassled by Carrion Crows, it must be very tedious to be constantly hassled, same goes for all raptors.

We left at 2.10. driving down the road, I saw two raptors appear above the ridge. A female Hen Harrier and  a Buzzard were having an altercation. The Hen returned and I was able to snatch two shots from the car before she departed over the moor.




A very expensive car re-fuelling and the long journey home – rather longer than necessary as we took one of Pam’s  diversions. Long way to go to add a Blue Tit to the day/month list ! Over 70 birds for the month list, will be more accurate after to-night’s bird account. 71.

May 2
Another beautiful day. The temperature was 15C on top of Cairgorm, on the viewing platform outside the café, 18C at Forest Lodge.
A very new experience, travelling up in the funicular whilst sharing the disabled section with two skiers and four snowboarders. Tourists were heavily out numbered, the car park and slopes were heaving with winter sports enthusiasts. They were so excited too. Alison had told us that the winter had been rubbish but snow conditions were very good at the moment. The train announcement was conditions on various pistes too – not the Cairngorm history we’re used to. The funicular whizzed up in half the usual time and ran every 15 minutes.
Getting out onto the viewing platform was hazardous, a couple of feet of hard-packed, ice-covered snow over most of it, the right hand side cordoned off. We slithered our way to the edge, met a Norfolk birder and immediately saw a pair of Ptarmigan feeding 50 yards in front of us. Another pair was in view off to the side near the skiiers. Jammy. The pair below got to within 30 feet of us before sauntering off. Delightful.


Ptarmigan viewable near right.
 I was able to show several very grateful trippers the view of them through my scope and tried some digiscoping. As one of them said ‘I could get to like snow if it was like this with hot sun on your back’.









Male Ptarmigan in nearly full summer plumage, walking uphill, I love his furry wellies.
My best digiscoping yet.
Successfully negotiating our way back, we had a hot chocolate before returning on the 12.00 train.
After a hopeful 10 minutes at Coire na Ciste, no Ring Ousel this year, we drove to Abernethy Forest Lodge RSPB. WE started the walk down the hill past the dog kennels before I changed my mind and thought one of the other walking trails would be better. We walked half a mile or more seeing nothing before a Crested Tit appeared in response to my call. We had views of the whole bird feeding upside down on cones. Great.
Whilst having lunch sitting in the car, I heard a Redstart – Pam thought she’d heard one earlier. I saw a flash of red fly by, located the landing place, Pam got out and we saw a male Scottish Parrot Crossbill drinking from a puddle. It didn’t stay long, must have known I had my camera ready.
Grantown for petrol and then Dulnain Bridge. We sat on the roadside metal safety barrier watching a pair of Common Sandpipers flying in chasing circles over and over again. Silly birds, it went on for ages. Eventually they landed on the other side and I saw their nest site in a hole under the bank, behind a large boulder. Pam walked off to have a look upstream…….and a Grey Wagtail flew past me , disappearing down river.
Lochindorb beckoned. On the approach road, Pam saw a bird on top of a roadside stone. A superb female Merlin, closest views ever. I was about to photograph it when Pam drove off, seeing a car coming in her rear mirror  - single track road. No other birds of note, apart from a Red Grouse calling so closely that I was able to photograph him from my window.





Another heart warming and very successful day.

May 3
Normally, we go the north coast when it’s not good weather in the Highlands. To-day, we left Carrbridge in sunshine again, found heavy mist rising from Lochindorb and a haar over the coast !
Burghead Maltings. After over an hour’s scanning of the sea we saw….Long-tailed Ducks, Guillemots. Razorbills, Eider, Cormorant, Shag, 2 Sandwich Terns and 2 Red-throated Divers. A Rock Pipit kept up his parachuting song throughout. We left the two other watchers to look for a loo and to explore further along the coast. We ended up in Hopeman Harbour, standing on the seawall with our scopes. Almost immediately, Pam was the first to see the adult White-billed Diver. The other birders from Burghead hurried up and a debate ensued. In the poor visibility, I was reluctant at first to rule out Great Northern – although the bill looked big and pale enough. The light improved and I was prepared to accept the collective decision.
Later, two were reported in the area.  By then we had moved on to Kingston on Spey where we lunched watching 34 Goosanders on a near pool. I shouldn’t have waited to take a photo – too hungry. On an ebbing tide, they all floated away downstream into another channel – and out of sight.
Culbin Forest now charges for parking which Pam was not prepared for me to pay, we rarely see much there anyway, it’s all conifer plantations and we don’t need to work for Crested Tit and Crossbill. Although one can never see too many of them.
Cloddymoss is a little further west, the approach along a gorse-lined track.. By now the sun was shining, no sign of haar nor any clouds. Our first Chiffchaff as we arrived, Blackcaps singing away, Orange-tip and Peacock Butterflies flitting from dandelion to dandelion. Around the small heavily overgrown with sedge and fringed with carrside trees lochan, we found groups of Cowslips in flower.


Cowslips
Low tide and no birds of note at Alturlie. A call at the Poundworld shop near Tesco for Klipits – didn’t bring any and cereals need packing on Saturday – before a short Tesco shop and home.
Got internet access to-night, interrupted by the delightful Lucy in need of cuddles, still can’t post this though. Don’t like to stay too long when the guests appear for their evening meal.
Lyndsey had locked the inner door earlier in the week, forgetting our arrangement for access !!

May 4
To-day…….it snowed. Well, wintry showers. Not all day, just fairly frequently and in short spurts. Some were more rain, others small hailstones, some small snowflakes. None of it settled and it was very cold all day, the highest reading was 7C in the sun, out of it it was 4C. What we’d expected really.
Having missed Black-throated Diver, Lochindorb has never let us down before, we consulted Gordon Hamlett’s excellent Highland Birding book and drove to Glen Affric. It’s a beautiful glen but rather short of birds, as we were reminded. We saw two Divers fly off as we arrived at the end of the loch but couldn’t ID them. Ah well, cut our losses and drive back to Glen Feshie, our normal last day birding place. We set Delia (SatNav) to get us back via Lochindorb for one last look.

Much higher wind to-day, the Loch was gunmetal grey and angry, choppy waves being driven into the shore. The Black-throats usually hang about south of the castle, not to-day, it was empty again, couldn’t see the nest either. Parking at the other end, the first to show was a pair of Red-throated Divers, the water was much calmer here. Maybe that was why we saw one and then another of our only Black-throated Divers this trip. Great, full house of Highland specialities. I scoped them for about 20 minutes. A pair of Common Sandpipers flew onto a nearby rock, making a right commotion, several Red Grouse showed above the heather too, this must be the easiest place in Scotland to view them.


A pair of Common Sandpipers
At the northern end of the Loch, Pam swung sharply into a layby. An Osprey was hovering high above the water. We watched for about 15 minutes, waiting in vain for it to dive on a fish. It flew away and landed on a heather clump on the opposite side, we startled it off when we drove by. Only the third we’ve seen this trip.

The usual stop at Inshriach Nursery where I walked determinedly past all the lovely Alpines , not going to clutter the car up this year ! First time ever. Their café is called the Potting Shed, has delicious home-made cakes and a long balcony area overlooking a huge bird feeding station. Goodness knows how they fill the feeders as they are hung over a steep drop to the valley below. I managed to find two high stools (perches) at the counter and we sat enjoying the common garden birds in their dozens. Mostly Chaffinches, some Greenfinches, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Siskin, Coal Tit and a Great Spotted Woodpecker.  And the cake…….












The Woody caused great excitement amongst the ladies Rambling Group from Nairn who walk the north coast somewhere once a month. They were all older and fun.


Glen Feshie at 4.30, adding a Teal and Goldeneye on the over full Uath Lochan to the day list, too cold to walk. Home to pack, clean the chalet and start packing the car. Delia says that it will take us 2 hours and 40 minutes to drive to Oban. Birding not taken into account !!

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